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Walker 1_44 Sweater

It is always a bit festive to release a new knitting pattern, I think. Especially when I have worked on the pattern for a long time, as I have with the pattern for the Walker 1_44 Sweater. I knitted my first version of the sweater during corona lockdowns. After that, the process of editing, photopraphy, and test knitting is always long, but this pattern was honestly also delayed because it was stuck on my to-do list with things that were not to be postponed!

But, about the finished pattern:

Walker 1_44 is a basic sweater with a relaxed body fit and a relatively fitted sleeve with a bit of extra length to keep wrists and hands warm, too.

The sweater is knitted from the bottom up, and shoulder seams closed with a 3-needle bind off. Then, sleeves are worked top down.

The pattern is available at Astrids butik and on Ravelry.

Here, the Walker 1_44 Sweater is shown in Rauma Finull and Mohair by Canard Brushed Lace held together, but with a gauge of 18 sts / 10 cm (4 inches), there are a lot of different yarn options for this one.

If working in just one color, I definitely think that the decorative rib edges are the best choise. But, I also wrote an option for ordinary 2×2 rib edges into the pattern. Those stitch numbers can also be used to work 1×1 or twisted 1×1 rib. If working the sweater in stripes or scraps, I think ordinary rib edges look nicer, as both colors changes and decorative rib edges just go in too many directions at once.

The decorative rib edges are partially based on the “Rick Rack Rib” from Barbara G. Walker’s “A Treasury of Knitting Patterns” and I decided to name this pattern after the author and where in her 4 volume work the rib is found: first book, page 44. Barbara G. Walker (b. 1930) is the author of several books, in addition to knitting, she has written about feminism and mythology. I became aware of Walker’s treasuries when I lived in the US from 2005 for a few years, and bought all four books. I often return to them. They are both a register of stitch patterns, collected by Walker, but are also handbooks to look in when you just need an edge pattern, an allover pattern, etc.

Walker 1_44 Sweater

Sizes: XS (S – M – L – XL – 2X – 3X – 4X – 5X) with a finished chest measurement of 94.5 (105.5 – 116.5 – 122 – 133 – 144.5 – 155.5 – 166.5 – 178) cm / 37 1/4 (41 1/2 – 46 – 48 – 52 1/2 – 56 3/4 – 61 1/4 – 65 1/2 – 70) inches.

Yarn use: Rauma Finull 6 (6 – 7 – 7 – 8 – 8 – 9 – 10 – 10) skeins, Mohair by Canard Brushed Lace 5 (5 – 6 – 6 – 7 – 7 – 8 – 8 – 8) skeins.

The pattern includes a bonus project: cuffs in the same pattern as the decorative rib. Perfect for trying out new color combinations or as a quick gift!

To give an idea of color combinations, 5 cuffs are shown below with the yarn they are made from:

Finull 405 dark grey and Brushed Lace 3010 charcoal:

Finull 404 grey and Brushed Lace 3005 sand:

Finull 4133 light rose and Brushed Lace 3022 rustic rose; the same color combination as the pink sweater above:

Finull 4805 mustard and Brushed Lace 3034 curry:

Finull 4125 ocher heather and Brushed Lace 3034 curry; the same color combination as the yellow sweater above:

And that, of course, is just a few of the infinite number of combinations of Finull and Brushed Lace!

Another day, I’ll show pictures of other versions of the sweater, made from yarns scraps and lonely skeins.

Astrids butik is my online store and the place to find the products related to my project Retrofutura. There, you’ll also find products related to my natural dyeing page Midgaards Have – natural dyes, yarn for dyeing, and dye plant seeds. Plus, you’ll find a growing selection of other yummy yarns, notions and patterns.

Buy the pattern:

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German Short Rows

Short rows are the perfect technique for shaping knitting, and there are many different ways to knit short rows. Many of them are a bit fiddly, and some will even make a small hole in the knitted fabric where the turn is. My favorite technique is German short rows because they are easy to work and the result is a nice, almost invisible, turn.

Here, I’ll show how to work German short rows in stockinette. The project I’m working on is a striped version of my own Walker 1_44 Sweater pattern that I’m currently writing. I use short rows to shape the shoulder of this sweater, to give it a small slope that makes the sweater fit better.

After knitting on the right side

Here, I am showing what to do after finishing the knit stitches on the right side. Having reached the number of stitches the pattern states, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.

Now, slip the first stitch as if to purl with the yarn in front of the work. Then, pull the yarn over the needle, pulling the two legs of the stitch long. After that, purl the stitches on the needle:

After purling on the wrong side

You basically do the same when you finish purling the required number of stitches on the wrong side. Turn the work so the right side is facing, slip the first stitch as if to purl with the yarn in front of the work, then pull the yarn over the needle, pulling the two legs of the stitch long. After that, knit the stitches on the needle:

In both cases, there is now a pulled-over stitch on the needle. This stitch looks doubled, but it is one stitch and should be worked as one.

Knit the pulled-over stitch on the right side

When you reach a pulled-over stitch on the right side, it looks like this. In this video, I knit two ordinary stitches, then the pulled over stitch, and then two ordinary stitches:

And similarly when you purl the pulled-over stitch on the wrong side. In this video, I purl two ordinary stitches, then the pulled-over stitch, then two ordinary stitches:

And this is what the shoulder looks like after being closed using a 3-needle bind off – you can just see that the stripes are narrower in one end, and that’s all it takes to improve the shaping of a sweater shoulder:

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A Decorative Rib

I am writing a pattern for a simple sweater with a simple shape and a gauge of 18 sts / 10 cm (4 inches). I’ll publish it as Walker 1_44 Sweater later.

I usually knit several versions when writing a pattern, and one of the versions of this sweater has a decorative rib edge that combines a normal rib with a zig-zag rib from Barbara Walker’s Treasury of Knitting Patterns. Walker calls this rib “rick rack ribbing”.

Here is the bottom edge of my sweater with the decorative rib. When I use normal rib, I usually use 10% fewer stitches for the rib than for the body. With this decorative rib, I use the same number, as the rick rack stitches are constantly crossing over, and that draws in the edge.

The rick rack stitches are actually a mini-cable, so the zigzagging look comes from the fact that the stitches are crossed. There are only two rounds, but they are difficult to explain in words, so I’ve made videos showing these stitches. They are shown for working in the round. The videos only show the special stitches, in the picture above, they are surrounded by purl, knit, purl.

Round 1: knit the second stitch through the back loop, then knit the first stitch:

Round 2: knit the second stitch through the front, then knit the first stitch:

It can be a bit difficult to get the needle through the front of the second stitch. I hold the stitches from the back, that makes it easier.

Repeat the two rounds.